The Different Styles of a Suit
There are many details that make up a suit from the lapel to the sleeve buttons. Designing a custom suit is an extensive but exciting process because you are creating all aspects of the garment.
One of the first features of a suit that you will decide on is whether you want a single or double breasted suit. The number of buttons on a single breast jacket varies between one to four. Standard single breast jacket styles have two or three buttons. A double breasted jacket is more formal than a single breasted jacket. These jackets feature four, six or eight buttons on the front with six as a standard. Peak lapels are a defining feature of these jackets and help to accentuate the shoulders.
For single breasted suits you will have the choice of 1-3 buttons in the front. One button jackets are generally used on a tuxedo and other black tie events. Two button jackets is one of the most classic looks in men's fashion and are great for social and business events. Three button jackets are more popular for men with above average height.
Selecting the lapel type for the garment is a crucial part of a suits design. There are three different types of lapel, notch, peak, and shawl that each have their own unique benefits. A notch lapel is where the top of the lapel and the bottom of the collar meets in a notch. It’s the most common lapel for single breasted jackets.
A peak lapel has strong edges pointed towards the shoulders. A peak lapel is used for more formal events and are most commonly found on double breasted jackets. A shawl lapel is used for black tie events on tuxedos. The collar has a continuous curve without a break like the peak or notch lapel.
Suits also have a variety of styles of pockets that vary on the spectrum of casual to formal. There are five different style types, patch, ticket, angled, flap, and jetted.
A patch pocket is the most casual style that is most suited for sport jackets. Ticket pockets are a classic casual style that was originally made to hold train tickets or change. Angled pockets are always accompanied by a flap and are in the middle of the casual to formal spectrum. A flap pocket adds a little thickness to the side of the jacket and is used for more formal events. A jetted pocket is the most formal and is used commonly on tuxedos.
A suit’s sleeve also have buttons that vary from one through four. Four buttons are more common on suit jackets while sports jackets have two. The buttons also have different ways to be spaced. They can be spaced, kissing, or stacked.
Moving from the outside details of a suit to the inside lining. The lining of a suit is a great opportunity to spice up your suit. You can get your suit to be unlined, half lined, and fully lined. Unlined jackets are usually worn during the warmer months due to the lighter weight of the suit. Fully lined suits are a little heavier but are needed for business suits. Half lined suits he middle ground for a suit jacket lining that protects the canvas of the suit without adding much weight.
Finally, the back of the suit can be non vented, single vent, or double vented. Non vented suits is a more European style that has a more fitted look. While single vented and double vented suits have different benefits depending on your physique and is really a matter of preference.
The process can seem overwhelming at times but in the end it is truly rewarding to have something that is one of a kind.